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Star Wars

Ahsoka Tano's Headpiece

Created by
CosplayPadawan
Build time
2-3 weeks
Budget
$200
Skill level
Intermediate
Description

Build beloved padawan Ahsoka Tano’s iconic headpiece from scratch! We’ll walk you through the construction of Ahsoka’s headpiece design for seasons 3-5 of the Clone Wars animated series, but you can adapt it for any iteration of the character’s headpiece. All materials can be found online or at your local crafts store.

This tutorial is based on a video from cosplayer CallMeSnips.

Tools required
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Carving knife
  • Hot glue gun
  • Safety goggles and gloves
skills required
  • Ability to handle sharp tools
  • Safely use a glue gun and carving knife
  • Basic sewing
  • Find a parent if you’re under 13
images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
Plastic wrap
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Duct tape
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Scrap paper
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Cardboard (recyled box works)
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Foam head
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
1 (or 2) cans of expanding foam
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$11
Part description
Carving knife
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$13
Part description
1 yard of batting
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$10
Part description
1 yard of interfacing
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$4
Part description
Pillow stuffing
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$8
Part description
1 (or 1.5) yards of opaque white lycra/Spandex
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$24
Part description
2x bottles of liquid latex
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$14
Part description
Latex brush
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$4
Part description
1x can of white PlastiDip spray
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Acrylic paint (5 colors)
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
White Liquitex Acrylic Paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Modeling clay
costume section
Headdress
Est. Cost
$3.5
Part description
1x can of silver/gold spray paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
Beads
costume section
Headdress
Est. Cost
$5-15
Guide

Headpiece Base (foam)

In this section you’ll learn to size the headpiece to fit your head, and create a base for the headpiece using expanding foam.

  1. To create a base for the headpiece that is sized and shaped to your own head, take plastic wrap and wrap it around your head, making sure to cover the back of your neck and below your ears. 
  2. Then cover the plastic wrap in duct tape in order to stiffen the material.
  3. If the cap doesn’t fit quite right, you can cut slits in the front or back to widen it a bit, so it’s easier to put on / take off the headpiece. 
  4. TIP: If you have unruly hair, think ahead to how you want to tuck it under your headpiece. Also, a bald cap can help keep your hair back along your forehead.
  5. While wearing the cap, mark off where your ears are, and cut those pieces out on both sides of the cap. 
  6. Cut out and tape on some batting to cover up the portions you just cut out for your ears.
  7. TIP: This will ease the strain on your ears when putting on and taking off the headpiece, and will help you hear better while wearing it!
  8. To make sure you know exactly how everything will align when you wear the headpiece, mark off where your eyes are, and where the center of your face is.
  9. Map out where the horns on the top of your headpiece should be by measuring the width of the cap from eye mark to eye mark. Then draw that line on a piece of paper and trace out an arc to approximate the arc of the cap (the top of your head). Draw in the horns.
  10. Horns should be about two inches high and curve slightly outward. 
  11. The middle point between the two horns should be about one inch high.
  12. Trace that shape onto a piece of cardboard. Glue the cardboard to the top of the cap where you want the horns to be. 
  13. The horns should be placed in the middle of your head, above your ears.
  14. Spray the expanding foam onto the cap…
  15. TIP: Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle, wear protective gloves and eye gear, and cover up the surface you’re working on with paper towels. This stuff is super sticky and doesn’t come off easily!
  16. TIP: Count each bottle as a one-time use item, because the foam will harden in the applicator straw, making it impossible to re-apply the straw even if you still have more foam in the can.
  17. TIP: If you can spare the cost, it might be worthwhile to invest in two bottles of expanding foam so that you can do this section in two takes. Otherwise, the sections underneath the ears will drip, and you may not get the precise shape you want. If you use a second bottle, you can wait for the first batch of foam to dry, and then flip the headpiece upside down and work on the bottom half.
  18. Use the cardboard cutout of the horns to guide you for the top portion.
  19. Don’t spray the foam along the nape of the neck or too far down along the back of your skull. You want to allow for up/down neck flexibility while wearing the headpiece!
  20. Add some extra foam to the area right below and in front of your ears so that the front lekku can curve forward over your shoulders.
  21. Wait at least an hour for the foam to harden, then use a carving knife to shape the foam.
  22. TIP: Keep a reference photo within eyesight so you can keep checking the shape as you carve.
  23. Try to get the surface as smooth as possible.
  24. Remember to add a slight curve forward to the areas right underneath the ears.
  25. Apply some duct tape to the front and top of the foam headpiece to smooth out the edges of the foam a bit, and to make the angles of the forehead portion of the headpiece a little more pronounced.

Front and Back Lekku (fabric)

In this section you’ll learn how to measure and assemble the two front lekku and the back lekku using fabric and stuffing, and then sew a lycra covering to fit over the whole thing.

  1. Grab a reference photo that shows Ahsoka head-on. NOTE: This tutorial walks you through the design for Ahsoka’s headpiece for seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars. If you want to construct any of her other headpiece designs, use a different reference photo and base your measurements accordingly.
  2. The two front lekku should curve at and towards your underarms.
  3. Put on your foam headpiece base and measure the length from your nose to your underarm. (Should be around 9 inches.)
  4. On your computer, crop out one lekku from Ahsoka’s eye to the bottom of the lekku.
  5. Print the cropped lekku as a full-page image.
  6. TIP: A standard printed page measures 8x11 inches, so you can use this as your baseline when printing the lekku. If the measurement of your lekku is closer to 11 inches, make the page margins smaller so that the lekku fills out more of the page length.
  7. Cut out the lekku, and make sure to leave some room along the borders.
  8. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of batting. Then cut out each of the pieces of batting, leaving plenty of extra room around the sides, for seam allowance when sewing, and also along the tops, so that you can adjust the positioning of the lekku when gluing it to your headpiece.
  9. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of interfacing. You can cut these out closer to their original size, since the interfacing will be lining the insides of the batting.
  10. Attach each piece of interfacing to each piece of batting according to the interfacing package directions.
  11. To assemble and then sew each lekku…
  12. Make sure to align the two pieces INSIDE OUT – so, with the interfacing on what will be the outside of each piece of batting – so that you can hide the seams when you turn the lekku inside out. 
  13. Don’t sew all the up the sides – again, so that you can turn the assembled lekku inside-out.
  14. Fill the two lekku with pillow stuffing – but make sure not to overstuff it.
  15. Use superglue to attach the fabric of the two lekku to the front of your foam headpiece.
  16. The back lekku is a simple upside-down triangle shape. So you can just hold up a piece of batting to the back of your headpiece and trace out where you’re going to attach the fabric.
  17. Then trace out the rest of the upside-down triangle shape, and keep in mind that the length of the back lekku should match the length of the front two.
  18. Repeat the previous steps for cutting and sewing the batting and interfacing together, and then gluing it to the back of the headpiece.
  19. Grab your lycra and drape it over your headpiece, and then pin the fabric around the headpiece so you know where you’re going to have to sew.
  20. Trim any extra fabric and remove the lycra from the headpiece so you can begin sewing
  21. Stretch the lycra covering over your foam headpiece and adjust it to fit.
  22. Cut some strips along the crown portion and pull the fabric tight underneath the cap portion of the headpiece and glue it down.


Painting

In this section you’ll learn how to paint the headpiece design.

  1. Start by applying A LOT of layers of liquid latex – at least 15 to 20 layers, in order to create a uniform base for the painting layer.
  2. You’ll need at least a full bottle of the latex, so it’s probably safest to buy a two-pack.
  3. Use a brush that works well with sticky substances – like a Mod Podge applicator brush.
  4. Work in a well-ventilated area. Liquid latex isn’t toxic (it’s normally applied to the body for prosthetics makeup) but it smells something awful.
  5. Wait at least two hours in between coats to allow each layer to dry.
  6. TIP: If the surface is too sticky in between coats, apply some baby powder.
  7. TIP: If you end up with bubbles/globs, you can use a Dremel tool to smooth them out.
  8. Spray two to three layers of white Plastidip to prime the surface for paint and create a solid white base layer.
  9. Spray the plastidip outside and wear protective eyewear and a mask.
  10. To paint the headpiece, start with two to three layers of white liquitex paint – if you use only regular acrylic paint, the dried paint will crack pretty easily.
  11. For the blue stripes, mix in some of the white liquitex with different shades of blue acrylic paint until you get your desired color.
  12. TIP: Add some white to lighten the color, or add some grey to muddy it a bit.
  13. Use painter’s tape to mark off the size and placement of the blue stripes.
  14. There should be four blue stripes along each side (not counting the star shape on each of the horns).
  15. There should be three stripes along the back lekku.
  16. For the crown/headdress portion of the headpiece, use painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and the three triangular shapes along each side.

Crown / Headdress

In this section you’ll learn how to shape and attach the “akul teeth” adornment and padawan beads for the Ahsoka headpiece from seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars.

  1. Using painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and then the three triangular shapes along each side.
  2. The bottom-most pieces should align with the tops of the blue stripes closest to your ears.
  3. Shape some modeling clay according to the sizes you approximated above. 
  4. Hold the pieces up to your headpiece and press them to the headpiece to size and shape them more accurately.
  5. Let the clay air dry, then bring them outside to spray paint them in silver or gold.
  6. For the beaded adornment, you can purchase pre-strung beads or put together your own.
  7. Glue the beads so that they extend from the top of the middle akul tooth, then fork out along the top of the headpiece and hang down on both sides of the back lekku, looping together underneath the back lekku.
  8. Glue another beaded string to the back of the first stripe on the right lekku, letting it hang down loose to your shoulder.

Guide

Headpiece Base (foam)

In this section you’ll learn to size the headpiece to fit your head, and create a base for the headpiece using expanding foam.

  1. To create a base for the headpiece that is sized and shaped to your own head, take plastic wrap and wrap it around your head, making sure to cover the back of your neck and below your ears. 
  2. Then cover the plastic wrap in duct tape in order to stiffen the material.
  3. If the cap doesn’t fit quite right, you can cut slits in the front or back to widen it a bit, so it’s easier to put on / take off the headpiece. 
  4. TIP: If you have unruly hair, think ahead to how you want to tuck it under your headpiece. Also, a bald cap can help keep your hair back along your forehead.
  5. While wearing the cap, mark off where your ears are, and cut those pieces out on both sides of the cap. 
  6. Cut out and tape on some batting to cover up the portions you just cut out for your ears.
  7. TIP: This will ease the strain on your ears when putting on and taking off the headpiece, and will help you hear better while wearing it!
  8. To make sure you know exactly how everything will align when you wear the headpiece, mark off where your eyes are, and where the center of your face is.
  9. Map out where the horns on the top of your headpiece should be by measuring the width of the cap from eye mark to eye mark. Then draw that line on a piece of paper and trace out an arc to approximate the arc of the cap (the top of your head). Draw in the horns.
  10. Horns should be about two inches high and curve slightly outward. 
  11. The middle point between the two horns should be about one inch high.
  12. Trace that shape onto a piece of cardboard. Glue the cardboard to the top of the cap where you want the horns to be. 
  13. The horns should be placed in the middle of your head, above your ears.
  14. Spray the expanding foam onto the cap…
  15. TIP: Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle, wear protective gloves and eye gear, and cover up the surface you’re working on with paper towels. This stuff is super sticky and doesn’t come off easily!
  16. TIP: Count each bottle as a one-time use item, because the foam will harden in the applicator straw, making it impossible to re-apply the straw even if you still have more foam in the can.
  17. TIP: If you can spare the cost, it might be worthwhile to invest in two bottles of expanding foam so that you can do this section in two takes. Otherwise, the sections underneath the ears will drip, and you may not get the precise shape you want. If you use a second bottle, you can wait for the first batch of foam to dry, and then flip the headpiece upside down and work on the bottom half.
  18. Use the cardboard cutout of the horns to guide you for the top portion.
  19. Don’t spray the foam along the nape of the neck or too far down along the back of your skull. You want to allow for up/down neck flexibility while wearing the headpiece!
  20. Add some extra foam to the area right below and in front of your ears so that the front lekku can curve forward over your shoulders.
  21. Wait at least an hour for the foam to harden, then use a carving knife to shape the foam.
  22. TIP: Keep a reference photo within eyesight so you can keep checking the shape as you carve.
  23. Try to get the surface as smooth as possible.
  24. Remember to add a slight curve forward to the areas right underneath the ears.
  25. Apply some duct tape to the front and top of the foam headpiece to smooth out the edges of the foam a bit, and to make the angles of the forehead portion of the headpiece a little more pronounced.

Front and Back Lekku (fabric)

In this section you’ll learn how to measure and assemble the two front lekku and the back lekku using fabric and stuffing, and then sew a lycra covering to fit over the whole thing.

  1. Grab a reference photo that shows Ahsoka head-on. NOTE: This tutorial walks you through the design for Ahsoka’s headpiece for seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars. If you want to construct any of her other headpiece designs, use a different reference photo and base your measurements accordingly.
  2. The two front lekku should curve at and towards your underarms.
  3. Put on your foam headpiece base and measure the length from your nose to your underarm. (Should be around 9 inches.)
  4. On your computer, crop out one lekku from Ahsoka’s eye to the bottom of the lekku.
  5. Print the cropped lekku as a full-page image.
  6. TIP: A standard printed page measures 8x11 inches, so you can use this as your baseline when printing the lekku. If the measurement of your lekku is closer to 11 inches, make the page margins smaller so that the lekku fills out more of the page length.
  7. Cut out the lekku, and make sure to leave some room along the borders.
  8. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of batting. Then cut out each of the pieces of batting, leaving plenty of extra room around the sides, for seam allowance when sewing, and also along the tops, so that you can adjust the positioning of the lekku when gluing it to your headpiece.
  9. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of interfacing. You can cut these out closer to their original size, since the interfacing will be lining the insides of the batting.
  10. Attach each piece of interfacing to each piece of batting according to the interfacing package directions.
  11. To assemble and then sew each lekku…
  12. Make sure to align the two pieces INSIDE OUT – so, with the interfacing on what will be the outside of each piece of batting – so that you can hide the seams when you turn the lekku inside out. 
  13. Don’t sew all the up the sides – again, so that you can turn the assembled lekku inside-out.
  14. Fill the two lekku with pillow stuffing – but make sure not to overstuff it.
  15. Use superglue to attach the fabric of the two lekku to the front of your foam headpiece.
  16. The back lekku is a simple upside-down triangle shape. So you can just hold up a piece of batting to the back of your headpiece and trace out where you’re going to attach the fabric.
  17. Then trace out the rest of the upside-down triangle shape, and keep in mind that the length of the back lekku should match the length of the front two.
  18. Repeat the previous steps for cutting and sewing the batting and interfacing together, and then gluing it to the back of the headpiece.
  19. Grab your lycra and drape it over your headpiece, and then pin the fabric around the headpiece so you know where you’re going to have to sew.
  20. Trim any extra fabric and remove the lycra from the headpiece so you can begin sewing
  21. Stretch the lycra covering over your foam headpiece and adjust it to fit.
  22. Cut some strips along the crown portion and pull the fabric tight underneath the cap portion of the headpiece and glue it down.


Painting

In this section you’ll learn how to paint the headpiece design.

  1. Start by applying A LOT of layers of liquid latex – at least 15 to 20 layers, in order to create a uniform base for the painting layer.
  2. You’ll need at least a full bottle of the latex, so it’s probably safest to buy a two-pack.
  3. Use a brush that works well with sticky substances – like a Mod Podge applicator brush.
  4. Work in a well-ventilated area. Liquid latex isn’t toxic (it’s normally applied to the body for prosthetics makeup) but it smells something awful.
  5. Wait at least two hours in between coats to allow each layer to dry.
  6. TIP: If the surface is too sticky in between coats, apply some baby powder.
  7. TIP: If you end up with bubbles/globs, you can use a Dremel tool to smooth them out.
  8. Spray two to three layers of white Plastidip to prime the surface for paint and create a solid white base layer.
  9. Spray the plastidip outside and wear protective eyewear and a mask.
  10. To paint the headpiece, start with two to three layers of white liquitex paint – if you use only regular acrylic paint, the dried paint will crack pretty easily.
  11. For the blue stripes, mix in some of the white liquitex with different shades of blue acrylic paint until you get your desired color.
  12. TIP: Add some white to lighten the color, or add some grey to muddy it a bit.
  13. Use painter’s tape to mark off the size and placement of the blue stripes.
  14. There should be four blue stripes along each side (not counting the star shape on each of the horns).
  15. There should be three stripes along the back lekku.
  16. For the crown/headdress portion of the headpiece, use painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and the three triangular shapes along each side.

Crown / Headdress

In this section you’ll learn how to shape and attach the “akul teeth” adornment and padawan beads for the Ahsoka headpiece from seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars.

  1. Using painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and then the three triangular shapes along each side.
  2. The bottom-most pieces should align with the tops of the blue stripes closest to your ears.
  3. Shape some modeling clay according to the sizes you approximated above. 
  4. Hold the pieces up to your headpiece and press them to the headpiece to size and shape them more accurately.
  5. Let the clay air dry, then bring them outside to spray paint them in silver or gold.
  6. For the beaded adornment, you can purchase pre-strung beads or put together your own.
  7. Glue the beads so that they extend from the top of the middle akul tooth, then fork out along the top of the headpiece and hang down on both sides of the back lekku, looping together underneath the back lekku.
  8. Glue another beaded string to the back of the first stripe on the right lekku, letting it hang down loose to your shoulder.

Description

Build beloved padawan Ahsoka Tano’s iconic headpiece from scratch! We’ll walk you through the construction of Ahsoka’s headpiece design for seasons 3-5 of the Clone Wars animated series, but you can adapt it for any iteration of the character’s headpiece. All materials can be found online or at your local crafts store.

This tutorial is based on a video from cosplayer CallMeSnips.

Tools required
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Carving knife
  • Hot glue gun
  • Safety goggles and gloves
skills required
  • Ability to handle sharp tools
  • Safely use a glue gun and carving knife
  • Basic sewing
  • Find a parent if you’re under 13
images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
Plastic wrap
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Duct tape
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Scrap paper
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Cardboard (recyled box works)
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
Part description
Foam head
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
1 (or 2) cans of expanding foam
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$11
Part description
Carving knife
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$13
Part description
1 yard of batting
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$10
Part description
1 yard of interfacing
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$4
Part description
Pillow stuffing
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$8
Part description
1 (or 1.5) yards of opaque white lycra/Spandex
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$24
Part description
2x bottles of liquid latex
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$14
Part description
Latex brush
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$4
Part description
1x can of white PlastiDip spray
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Acrylic paint (5 colors)
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
White Liquitex Acrylic Paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Modeling clay
costume section
Headdress
Est. Cost
$3.5
Part description
1x can of silver/gold spray paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
Beads
costume section
Headdress
Est. Cost
$5-15
Guide

Headpiece Base (foam)

In this section you’ll learn to size the headpiece to fit your head, and create a base for the headpiece using expanding foam.

  1. To create a base for the headpiece that is sized and shaped to your own head, take plastic wrap and wrap it around your head, making sure to cover the back of your neck and below your ears. 
  2. Then cover the plastic wrap in duct tape in order to stiffen the material.
  3. If the cap doesn’t fit quite right, you can cut slits in the front or back to widen it a bit, so it’s easier to put on / take off the headpiece. 
  4. TIP: If you have unruly hair, think ahead to how you want to tuck it under your headpiece. Also, a bald cap can help keep your hair back along your forehead.
  5. While wearing the cap, mark off where your ears are, and cut those pieces out on both sides of the cap. 
  6. Cut out and tape on some batting to cover up the portions you just cut out for your ears.
  7. TIP: This will ease the strain on your ears when putting on and taking off the headpiece, and will help you hear better while wearing it!
  8. To make sure you know exactly how everything will align when you wear the headpiece, mark off where your eyes are, and where the center of your face is.
  9. Map out where the horns on the top of your headpiece should be by measuring the width of the cap from eye mark to eye mark. Then draw that line on a piece of paper and trace out an arc to approximate the arc of the cap (the top of your head). Draw in the horns.
  10. Horns should be about two inches high and curve slightly outward. 
  11. The middle point between the two horns should be about one inch high.
  12. Trace that shape onto a piece of cardboard. Glue the cardboard to the top of the cap where you want the horns to be. 
  13. The horns should be placed in the middle of your head, above your ears.
  14. Spray the expanding foam onto the cap…
  15. TIP: Make sure to follow the instructions on the bottle, wear protective gloves and eye gear, and cover up the surface you’re working on with paper towels. This stuff is super sticky and doesn’t come off easily!
  16. TIP: Count each bottle as a one-time use item, because the foam will harden in the applicator straw, making it impossible to re-apply the straw even if you still have more foam in the can.
  17. TIP: If you can spare the cost, it might be worthwhile to invest in two bottles of expanding foam so that you can do this section in two takes. Otherwise, the sections underneath the ears will drip, and you may not get the precise shape you want. If you use a second bottle, you can wait for the first batch of foam to dry, and then flip the headpiece upside down and work on the bottom half.
  18. Use the cardboard cutout of the horns to guide you for the top portion.
  19. Don’t spray the foam along the nape of the neck or too far down along the back of your skull. You want to allow for up/down neck flexibility while wearing the headpiece!
  20. Add some extra foam to the area right below and in front of your ears so that the front lekku can curve forward over your shoulders.
  21. Wait at least an hour for the foam to harden, then use a carving knife to shape the foam.
  22. TIP: Keep a reference photo within eyesight so you can keep checking the shape as you carve.
  23. Try to get the surface as smooth as possible.
  24. Remember to add a slight curve forward to the areas right underneath the ears.
  25. Apply some duct tape to the front and top of the foam headpiece to smooth out the edges of the foam a bit, and to make the angles of the forehead portion of the headpiece a little more pronounced.

Front and Back Lekku (fabric)

In this section you’ll learn how to measure and assemble the two front lekku and the back lekku using fabric and stuffing, and then sew a lycra covering to fit over the whole thing.

  1. Grab a reference photo that shows Ahsoka head-on. NOTE: This tutorial walks you through the design for Ahsoka’s headpiece for seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars. If you want to construct any of her other headpiece designs, use a different reference photo and base your measurements accordingly.
  2. The two front lekku should curve at and towards your underarms.
  3. Put on your foam headpiece base and measure the length from your nose to your underarm. (Should be around 9 inches.)
  4. On your computer, crop out one lekku from Ahsoka’s eye to the bottom of the lekku.
  5. Print the cropped lekku as a full-page image.
  6. TIP: A standard printed page measures 8x11 inches, so you can use this as your baseline when printing the lekku. If the measurement of your lekku is closer to 11 inches, make the page margins smaller so that the lekku fills out more of the page length.
  7. Cut out the lekku, and make sure to leave some room along the borders.
  8. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of batting. Then cut out each of the pieces of batting, leaving plenty of extra room around the sides, for seam allowance when sewing, and also along the tops, so that you can adjust the positioning of the lekku when gluing it to your headpiece.
  9. Trace the lekku four times onto your sheet of interfacing. You can cut these out closer to their original size, since the interfacing will be lining the insides of the batting.
  10. Attach each piece of interfacing to each piece of batting according to the interfacing package directions.
  11. To assemble and then sew each lekku…
  12. Make sure to align the two pieces INSIDE OUT – so, with the interfacing on what will be the outside of each piece of batting – so that you can hide the seams when you turn the lekku inside out. 
  13. Don’t sew all the up the sides – again, so that you can turn the assembled lekku inside-out.
  14. Fill the two lekku with pillow stuffing – but make sure not to overstuff it.
  15. Use superglue to attach the fabric of the two lekku to the front of your foam headpiece.
  16. The back lekku is a simple upside-down triangle shape. So you can just hold up a piece of batting to the back of your headpiece and trace out where you’re going to attach the fabric.
  17. Then trace out the rest of the upside-down triangle shape, and keep in mind that the length of the back lekku should match the length of the front two.
  18. Repeat the previous steps for cutting and sewing the batting and interfacing together, and then gluing it to the back of the headpiece.
  19. Grab your lycra and drape it over your headpiece, and then pin the fabric around the headpiece so you know where you’re going to have to sew.
  20. Trim any extra fabric and remove the lycra from the headpiece so you can begin sewing
  21. Stretch the lycra covering over your foam headpiece and adjust it to fit.
  22. Cut some strips along the crown portion and pull the fabric tight underneath the cap portion of the headpiece and glue it down.


Painting

In this section you’ll learn how to paint the headpiece design.

  1. Start by applying A LOT of layers of liquid latex – at least 15 to 20 layers, in order to create a uniform base for the painting layer.
  2. You’ll need at least a full bottle of the latex, so it’s probably safest to buy a two-pack.
  3. Use a brush that works well with sticky substances – like a Mod Podge applicator brush.
  4. Work in a well-ventilated area. Liquid latex isn’t toxic (it’s normally applied to the body for prosthetics makeup) but it smells something awful.
  5. Wait at least two hours in between coats to allow each layer to dry.
  6. TIP: If the surface is too sticky in between coats, apply some baby powder.
  7. TIP: If you end up with bubbles/globs, you can use a Dremel tool to smooth them out.
  8. Spray two to three layers of white Plastidip to prime the surface for paint and create a solid white base layer.
  9. Spray the plastidip outside and wear protective eyewear and a mask.
  10. To paint the headpiece, start with two to three layers of white liquitex paint – if you use only regular acrylic paint, the dried paint will crack pretty easily.
  11. For the blue stripes, mix in some of the white liquitex with different shades of blue acrylic paint until you get your desired color.
  12. TIP: Add some white to lighten the color, or add some grey to muddy it a bit.
  13. Use painter’s tape to mark off the size and placement of the blue stripes.
  14. There should be four blue stripes along each side (not counting the star shape on each of the horns).
  15. There should be three stripes along the back lekku.
  16. For the crown/headdress portion of the headpiece, use painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and the three triangular shapes along each side.

Crown / Headdress

In this section you’ll learn how to shape and attach the “akul teeth” adornment and padawan beads for the Ahsoka headpiece from seasons 3-5 of The Clone Wars.

  1. Using painter’s tape, mark off the approximate placement and size of the larger, diamond-shaped piece in the middle, and then the three triangular shapes along each side.
  2. The bottom-most pieces should align with the tops of the blue stripes closest to your ears.
  3. Shape some modeling clay according to the sizes you approximated above. 
  4. Hold the pieces up to your headpiece and press them to the headpiece to size and shape them more accurately.
  5. Let the clay air dry, then bring them outside to spray paint them in silver or gold.
  6. For the beaded adornment, you can purchase pre-strung beads or put together your own.
  7. Glue the beads so that they extend from the top of the middle akul tooth, then fork out along the top of the headpiece and hang down on both sides of the back lekku, looping together underneath the back lekku.
  8. Glue another beaded string to the back of the first stripe on the right lekku, letting it hang down loose to your shoulder.

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