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She-Ra

Catra Props

Created by
Lauren DeMarti
Build time
1 day
Budget
$130
Skill level
Intermediate
Description

Make Catra’s costume from season 4 of Dreamwork’s She-Ra! This tutorial is for a completely from-scratch costume, with options to modify items for those who wish for an easier build. This guide includes instructions for Catra’s headpiece, and the all-important tail and ears! 

Tools required
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Hot glue gun
  • Heat gun
  • Pliers
  • Sewing machine
  • Craft knife (i.e. X-Acto Knife) or box cutter
  • Respirator to protect against fumes
skills required
  • Using a sewing machine
  • Making a pattern (I will walk you through this!)
  • Safely use a heat gun, hot glue gun, and sharp objects - ask a parent for supervision!


images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
1 yard of long haired brown faux fur
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$35
Part description
1/4 yard of short haired cream fur
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$18
Part description
1x worbla sheet
costume section
Ears & Headpiece
Est. Cost
$30
Part description
Alcohol-based marker set
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$14
Part description
Foam tube (1/2 in. diameter)
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Scrap fabric
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
Part description
Wire coat hanger
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
Part description
1x sheet 2mm EVA foam
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$13
Part description
Magnets
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
2x large metal hairclips
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
1x can phantom red satin spraypaint
costume section
$7
Est. Cost
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249082-Painters-Touch-Colonial/dp/B002BWORY0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=brick+spray+paint&qid=1602644617&sr=8-4
Part description
1x tube of black acrylic paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$2
Part description
Wide elastic belt
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
$8
Guide

Headpiece

  1. Find a heat-safe item that can act as a mold for your head piece. I use the outside of a large stock pot - be careful, it will get very hot!
  2. Gently heat your foam piece against your form using a heat gun and set aside (don’t forget your respirator!)
  3. Heat both Worbla pieces evenly. Once it starts to get tacky and a little shiny, it is ready. **TIP: heat up your Worbla on top of parchment paper or a silicon baking mat so the Worbla pieces don’t stick to the surface below them!
  4. Place one piece worbla piece on your mold, put your foam on top, then finish off with the second worbla piece. You will have a sandwich of the foam between your worbla pieces.
  5. Press the edges of the worbla together to join them - you may have to reheat the worbla in sections as you go. Press up against the foam to emphasize your shape. Don’t forget the “eyebrow” cut-outs! **TIP: a straight tool may help to get clean lines, especially inside the cut-outs.
  6. Use regular scissors or a craft knife to cut off the excess worbla. The craft knife helps to get clean inner corners. You can reheat the worbla a bit if you find it hard to cut through. **TIP: let your worbla cool before removing it from the mold.
  7. Water down regular white/Elmer’s glue slightly, and brush it all over your head piece with a large brush to prime the worbla. You will have to apply 5-7 coats, letting it dry completely between coats. 
  8. Using the headpiece template, cut out one (1) piece from 2mm craft or EVA foam, and two (2) pieces from Worbla or your thermoplastic of choice. For the Worbla pieces ONLY, cut out the template with 1cm or more extra material around all edges.
  9. Remove the “eyebrow” cut-outs from the “FOAM” pattern only, using a craft knife or box cutter.
  10. ach coat. **TIP: use a fan placed nearby to speed up the drying process. You can also work on other parts of the cosplay while you wait!
  11. After you are satisfied with the smoothness of the worbla, spray the front and back of the pieces with burgundy paint. You may need more than one coat. (Don’t forget your respirator!)
  12. Once dry, use a small brush and black acrylic paint to fill in the “eyebrow” cut-outs.
  13. Hot glue some magnets to the INSIDE of the mask where it will be touching metal hairpins clipped into your wig near your temples. 
  14. SHORTCUT: don’t want to use worbla? You can make Catra’s headpiece using only foam if you wish; this will be faster but have a different finished look. Use a thicker, 5mm EVA foam if you pursue this route. EVA foam will also need to be primed before painting.

Ears

  1. Using the template, cut out two mirrored (2) ears from worbla and four mirrored (4) pieces of fur (2 in light colored fur for the ear interiors, and 2 in a brown fur for the ear exteriors). Be careful to mirror the ear shape, so you have a left ear and a right ear for both fur and worbla pieces!  **TIP: cut off the seam allowance from your template before cutting out the worbla. Only the fur pieces need seam allowance. 
  2. Use a heat gun to warm and shape the ears to your liking. Set aside.
  3. Sew the fur fronts to the fur backs inside out (fur inside). Turn right side (fur side) out, brushing and pulling away any fur that might have been caught in the seam. Turn your ears inside out again and trim the seam allowances close to the stitch line.
  4. Turn the ears right side out again. Trim away the fur to bring dimension to your ears using scissors. Look at photos of animal ears for inspiration on where to trim (longer fur at the base of the ears, in the center of the inside ear, and a tuft at the very tips of the ears). Be careful not to trim too much. 
  5. Use alcohol-based markers to add shadows and highlights to the fur. Catra’s ears are dark in the center of the inner ear. Use markers at the seam to soften the line between the dark outer ear and the light inner ear.
  6. Place the worbla pieces inside of the fur ears and glue in place using a hot glue gun. Be sure to glue the fur down at the bottom edge, both front and back!
  7. Hot glue the ears to the narrow headband.

Tail

  1. Straighten out the wire coat hanger using pliers.
  2. Bend back one end of the hanger to create the tip of the tail.
  3. Measure your desired tail length starting from this tip. Mark with a Sharpie.
  4. Make a large circle starting at the mark, about 2” in diameter, using pliers. 
  5. Wrap the wire end around the base of the loop. Cut off any excess wire and wrap with electrical tape for additional strength.
  6. Bend this large circle down towards the length of the wire to create the “hook” for the tail to attach onto your belt. 
  7. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark made in Step 3. Cut the insulation tube about 2” shorter than this length.
  8. Wrap the wire with scrap fabric and slip the wire inside the insulation tube, using the self-sealing tape to close the tube. The scrap fabric helps to fill the tube space so that the wire doesn’t wiggle around inside! The end of the wire tail (belt hook) should stick out from the foam tube about 2”.
  9. Measure the circumference of the tube and add ¾” to this measurement. This will be the WIDTH of the tail fur piece.
  10. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark from Step 3. This will be the LENGTH of the fur piece (it is always okay if this piece is made too long, since it can be trimmed).
  11. Mark a rectangle using the LENGTH and WIDTH measurements from Steps 9 and 10, respectively, on the backside of the fur. Be sure the fur grain is brushing down the length of the tail. 
  12. Make a mark about 3 inches up from one short edge of the rectangle and sketch a curve starting and ending at this mark to create the curved tail end. 
  13. Cut out the fur using a craft knife (fur-side down).
  14. Sew the fur “sock” together with a ½ inch seam allowance along the long edges and around the pointed tip.
  15. Turn the fur right side (fur side) out. and slip it on the foam tube.
  16. To wear, the wire loop will slip behind your belt from above. For extra security, hand stitch around this loop to any fabric belt.

Guide

Headpiece

  1. Find a heat-safe item that can act as a mold for your head piece. I use the outside of a large stock pot - be careful, it will get very hot!
  2. Gently heat your foam piece against your form using a heat gun and set aside (don’t forget your respirator!)
  3. Heat both Worbla pieces evenly. Once it starts to get tacky and a little shiny, it is ready. **TIP: heat up your Worbla on top of parchment paper or a silicon baking mat so the Worbla pieces don’t stick to the surface below them!
  4. Place one piece worbla piece on your mold, put your foam on top, then finish off with the second worbla piece. You will have a sandwich of the foam between your worbla pieces.
  5. Press the edges of the worbla together to join them - you may have to reheat the worbla in sections as you go. Press up against the foam to emphasize your shape. Don’t forget the “eyebrow” cut-outs! **TIP: a straight tool may help to get clean lines, especially inside the cut-outs.
  6. Use regular scissors or a craft knife to cut off the excess worbla. The craft knife helps to get clean inner corners. You can reheat the worbla a bit if you find it hard to cut through. **TIP: let your worbla cool before removing it from the mold.
  7. Water down regular white/Elmer’s glue slightly, and brush it all over your head piece with a large brush to prime the worbla. You will have to apply 5-7 coats, letting it dry completely between coats. 
  8. Using the headpiece template, cut out one (1) piece from 2mm craft or EVA foam, and two (2) pieces from Worbla or your thermoplastic of choice. For the Worbla pieces ONLY, cut out the template with 1cm or more extra material around all edges.
  9. Remove the “eyebrow” cut-outs from the “FOAM” pattern only, using a craft knife or box cutter.
  10. ach coat. **TIP: use a fan placed nearby to speed up the drying process. You can also work on other parts of the cosplay while you wait!
  11. After you are satisfied with the smoothness of the worbla, spray the front and back of the pieces with burgundy paint. You may need more than one coat. (Don’t forget your respirator!)
  12. Once dry, use a small brush and black acrylic paint to fill in the “eyebrow” cut-outs.
  13. Hot glue some magnets to the INSIDE of the mask where it will be touching metal hairpins clipped into your wig near your temples. 
  14. SHORTCUT: don’t want to use worbla? You can make Catra’s headpiece using only foam if you wish; this will be faster but have a different finished look. Use a thicker, 5mm EVA foam if you pursue this route. EVA foam will also need to be primed before painting.

Ears

  1. Using the template, cut out two mirrored (2) ears from worbla and four mirrored (4) pieces of fur (2 in light colored fur for the ear interiors, and 2 in a brown fur for the ear exteriors). Be careful to mirror the ear shape, so you have a left ear and a right ear for both fur and worbla pieces!  **TIP: cut off the seam allowance from your template before cutting out the worbla. Only the fur pieces need seam allowance. 
  2. Use a heat gun to warm and shape the ears to your liking. Set aside.
  3. Sew the fur fronts to the fur backs inside out (fur inside). Turn right side (fur side) out, brushing and pulling away any fur that might have been caught in the seam. Turn your ears inside out again and trim the seam allowances close to the stitch line.
  4. Turn the ears right side out again. Trim away the fur to bring dimension to your ears using scissors. Look at photos of animal ears for inspiration on where to trim (longer fur at the base of the ears, in the center of the inside ear, and a tuft at the very tips of the ears). Be careful not to trim too much. 
  5. Use alcohol-based markers to add shadows and highlights to the fur. Catra’s ears are dark in the center of the inner ear. Use markers at the seam to soften the line between the dark outer ear and the light inner ear.
  6. Place the worbla pieces inside of the fur ears and glue in place using a hot glue gun. Be sure to glue the fur down at the bottom edge, both front and back!
  7. Hot glue the ears to the narrow headband.

Tail

  1. Straighten out the wire coat hanger using pliers.
  2. Bend back one end of the hanger to create the tip of the tail.
  3. Measure your desired tail length starting from this tip. Mark with a Sharpie.
  4. Make a large circle starting at the mark, about 2” in diameter, using pliers. 
  5. Wrap the wire end around the base of the loop. Cut off any excess wire and wrap with electrical tape for additional strength.
  6. Bend this large circle down towards the length of the wire to create the “hook” for the tail to attach onto your belt. 
  7. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark made in Step 3. Cut the insulation tube about 2” shorter than this length.
  8. Wrap the wire with scrap fabric and slip the wire inside the insulation tube, using the self-sealing tape to close the tube. The scrap fabric helps to fill the tube space so that the wire doesn’t wiggle around inside! The end of the wire tail (belt hook) should stick out from the foam tube about 2”.
  9. Measure the circumference of the tube and add ¾” to this measurement. This will be the WIDTH of the tail fur piece.
  10. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark from Step 3. This will be the LENGTH of the fur piece (it is always okay if this piece is made too long, since it can be trimmed).
  11. Mark a rectangle using the LENGTH and WIDTH measurements from Steps 9 and 10, respectively, on the backside of the fur. Be sure the fur grain is brushing down the length of the tail. 
  12. Make a mark about 3 inches up from one short edge of the rectangle and sketch a curve starting and ending at this mark to create the curved tail end. 
  13. Cut out the fur using a craft knife (fur-side down).
  14. Sew the fur “sock” together with a ½ inch seam allowance along the long edges and around the pointed tip.
  15. Turn the fur right side (fur side) out. and slip it on the foam tube.
  16. To wear, the wire loop will slip behind your belt from above. For extra security, hand stitch around this loop to any fabric belt.

Description

Make Catra’s costume from season 4 of Dreamwork’s She-Ra! This tutorial is for a completely from-scratch costume, with options to modify items for those who wish for an easier build. This guide includes instructions for Catra’s headpiece, and the all-important tail and ears! 

Tools required
  • Scissors
  • Pins
  • Hot glue gun
  • Heat gun
  • Pliers
  • Sewing machine
  • Craft knife (i.e. X-Acto Knife) or box cutter
  • Respirator to protect against fumes
skills required
  • Using a sewing machine
  • Making a pattern (I will walk you through this!)
  • Safely use a heat gun, hot glue gun, and sharp objects - ask a parent for supervision!


images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
1 yard of long haired brown faux fur
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$35
Part description
1/4 yard of short haired cream fur
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$18
Part description
1x worbla sheet
costume section
Ears & Headpiece
Est. Cost
$30
Part description
Alcohol-based marker set
costume section
Ears
Est. Cost
$14
Part description
Foam tube (1/2 in. diameter)
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Scrap fabric
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
Part description
Wire coat hanger
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
Part description
1x sheet 2mm EVA foam
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$13
Part description
Magnets
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
2x large metal hairclips
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
1x can phantom red satin spraypaint
costume section
$7
Est. Cost
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249082-Painters-Touch-Colonial/dp/B002BWORY0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=brick+spray+paint&qid=1602644617&sr=8-4
Part description
1x tube of black acrylic paint
costume section
Headpiece
Est. Cost
$2
Part description
Wide elastic belt
costume section
Tail
Est. Cost
$8
Guide

Headpiece

  1. Find a heat-safe item that can act as a mold for your head piece. I use the outside of a large stock pot - be careful, it will get very hot!
  2. Gently heat your foam piece against your form using a heat gun and set aside (don’t forget your respirator!)
  3. Heat both Worbla pieces evenly. Once it starts to get tacky and a little shiny, it is ready. **TIP: heat up your Worbla on top of parchment paper or a silicon baking mat so the Worbla pieces don’t stick to the surface below them!
  4. Place one piece worbla piece on your mold, put your foam on top, then finish off with the second worbla piece. You will have a sandwich of the foam between your worbla pieces.
  5. Press the edges of the worbla together to join them - you may have to reheat the worbla in sections as you go. Press up against the foam to emphasize your shape. Don’t forget the “eyebrow” cut-outs! **TIP: a straight tool may help to get clean lines, especially inside the cut-outs.
  6. Use regular scissors or a craft knife to cut off the excess worbla. The craft knife helps to get clean inner corners. You can reheat the worbla a bit if you find it hard to cut through. **TIP: let your worbla cool before removing it from the mold.
  7. Water down regular white/Elmer’s glue slightly, and brush it all over your head piece with a large brush to prime the worbla. You will have to apply 5-7 coats, letting it dry completely between coats. 
  8. Using the headpiece template, cut out one (1) piece from 2mm craft or EVA foam, and two (2) pieces from Worbla or your thermoplastic of choice. For the Worbla pieces ONLY, cut out the template with 1cm or more extra material around all edges.
  9. Remove the “eyebrow” cut-outs from the “FOAM” pattern only, using a craft knife or box cutter.
  10. ach coat. **TIP: use a fan placed nearby to speed up the drying process. You can also work on other parts of the cosplay while you wait!
  11. After you are satisfied with the smoothness of the worbla, spray the front and back of the pieces with burgundy paint. You may need more than one coat. (Don’t forget your respirator!)
  12. Once dry, use a small brush and black acrylic paint to fill in the “eyebrow” cut-outs.
  13. Hot glue some magnets to the INSIDE of the mask where it will be touching metal hairpins clipped into your wig near your temples. 
  14. SHORTCUT: don’t want to use worbla? You can make Catra’s headpiece using only foam if you wish; this will be faster but have a different finished look. Use a thicker, 5mm EVA foam if you pursue this route. EVA foam will also need to be primed before painting.

Ears

  1. Using the template, cut out two mirrored (2) ears from worbla and four mirrored (4) pieces of fur (2 in light colored fur for the ear interiors, and 2 in a brown fur for the ear exteriors). Be careful to mirror the ear shape, so you have a left ear and a right ear for both fur and worbla pieces!  **TIP: cut off the seam allowance from your template before cutting out the worbla. Only the fur pieces need seam allowance. 
  2. Use a heat gun to warm and shape the ears to your liking. Set aside.
  3. Sew the fur fronts to the fur backs inside out (fur inside). Turn right side (fur side) out, brushing and pulling away any fur that might have been caught in the seam. Turn your ears inside out again and trim the seam allowances close to the stitch line.
  4. Turn the ears right side out again. Trim away the fur to bring dimension to your ears using scissors. Look at photos of animal ears for inspiration on where to trim (longer fur at the base of the ears, in the center of the inside ear, and a tuft at the very tips of the ears). Be careful not to trim too much. 
  5. Use alcohol-based markers to add shadows and highlights to the fur. Catra’s ears are dark in the center of the inner ear. Use markers at the seam to soften the line between the dark outer ear and the light inner ear.
  6. Place the worbla pieces inside of the fur ears and glue in place using a hot glue gun. Be sure to glue the fur down at the bottom edge, both front and back!
  7. Hot glue the ears to the narrow headband.

Tail

  1. Straighten out the wire coat hanger using pliers.
  2. Bend back one end of the hanger to create the tip of the tail.
  3. Measure your desired tail length starting from this tip. Mark with a Sharpie.
  4. Make a large circle starting at the mark, about 2” in diameter, using pliers. 
  5. Wrap the wire end around the base of the loop. Cut off any excess wire and wrap with electrical tape for additional strength.
  6. Bend this large circle down towards the length of the wire to create the “hook” for the tail to attach onto your belt. 
  7. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark made in Step 3. Cut the insulation tube about 2” shorter than this length.
  8. Wrap the wire with scrap fabric and slip the wire inside the insulation tube, using the self-sealing tape to close the tube. The scrap fabric helps to fill the tube space so that the wire doesn’t wiggle around inside! The end of the wire tail (belt hook) should stick out from the foam tube about 2”.
  9. Measure the circumference of the tube and add ¾” to this measurement. This will be the WIDTH of the tail fur piece.
  10. Measure from the tip of the wire to the mark from Step 3. This will be the LENGTH of the fur piece (it is always okay if this piece is made too long, since it can be trimmed).
  11. Mark a rectangle using the LENGTH and WIDTH measurements from Steps 9 and 10, respectively, on the backside of the fur. Be sure the fur grain is brushing down the length of the tail. 
  12. Make a mark about 3 inches up from one short edge of the rectangle and sketch a curve starting and ending at this mark to create the curved tail end. 
  13. Cut out the fur using a craft knife (fur-side down).
  14. Sew the fur “sock” together with a ½ inch seam allowance along the long edges and around the pointed tip.
  15. Turn the fur right side (fur side) out. and slip it on the foam tube.
  16. To wear, the wire loop will slip behind your belt from above. For extra security, hand stitch around this loop to any fabric belt.

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