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Build time
1 day
Budget
<$100
Skill level
Beginner
Description

Make a Todoroki costume in his vampire version. You can find the base outfit in your closet or at a thrift store, so this tutorial focuses on the most distinct parts of the costume -- the vest and cape. You can alter these pieces to suit other costumes as well!

Tools required
  • Sewing scissors
  • Fabric scissors
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine
  • Bias tape presser foot
  • Overlocker machine
  • Sewing Needles
  • Lighter
  • Tailor chalk
  • Paintbrushes
skills required
  • Basic machine sewing
  • Basic hand sewing
  • Ability to use sharp scissors
  • Safely use a lighter and superglue
  • Basic pattern modification

images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
2 yards of black pleather
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
$27
Part description
2 yards of red anti-static lining
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
1 yard of black faux suede with scuba backing
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$12
Part description
Male pattern pack
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$8
Part description
1 yard of red faux suede with scuba backing
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Black thread
costume section
General
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Yellow thread
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Gold bias binding tape
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Gold twisted cord
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
8x gold retro buttons
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$12
Part description
White Button-Up Shirt
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
Black Chino Pants
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
Black Leather Gloves
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
White Foulard
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
1x tube red paint
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
Guide

Cape

  1. Fold the cape exterior fabric (black pleather) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  2. Fold the cape lining fabric (wine colored anti-static fabric) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  3. Place one folded fabric on top of the other, making certain the folded edges align, and pin the fabrics together. This setup will allow us to draw ½ of the cape pattern and ensure a symmetrical cut. 
  4. Measure the distance from the nape of your neck to the back of your knees. This will be your cape length (it can be longer if desired).
  5. Using tailor chalk, mark the length you measured on the fabric along the folded edge. This mark will be the starting point for the neckline where the collar will attach. 
  6. Measure the circumference of your neck. 
  7. Starting at the mark from Step 5, sketch ½ of a “U” that is approximately the length of your neck's circumference.
  8. Complete the cape sketch based on the cape reference pattern. Draw the cape as wide as the fabric allows for maximum flare.
  9. Sketch ½ of the collar shape starting at the folded edge of fabric. The smaller, inner “U” should be about equal in length to the circumference of your neck and match the measurement of the corresponding line on the cape sketch (the cape and collar edges will be sewn together along these lines). The collar should be about 5” tall, but feel free to play with the proportions. 
  10. Keeping the fabrics pinned together, cut out the cape and collar pieces leaving a 1” of seaming allowance around the sketch lines. In other words, do not cut along your sketch lines. Use those lines as reference. Alternatively, trace another set of lines parallel to your original sketches as cutting guides. 
  11. Unpin, unfold, and separate the fabrics by outer layer (pleather) and lining. You will have 2 collar pieces and two cape pieces, one set from each fabric. 
  12. Align the pleather collar with the pleather cape and sew together using a sewing machine. Add an extra seam to the “top” of the collar to flatten it. 
  13. Repeat Step 12 for the collar and cape lining. 
  14. Putting right sides together (i.e. the wrong side facing outward), sew the lining to the outer layer of the cape around all the edges except the top of the collar. We need this edge to remain open to turn the cape inside out, like a pillow case.
  15. Turn the cape inside out. 
  16. To close the cape, carefully fold about ½” of lining and pleather at the top of the collar inward. Pin the pieces together as you go along, then sew that edge shut. 
  17. Run a straight stitch all around the outer edge of the cape to give it a more finished look.
  18. You can hand-sew the collar down to the neck to make the piece the shape that you desire.
  19. Use a brooch (painted red to match the colour scheme and some of the artworks) to secure the cape around your neck.

Vest

Base:

  1. Scale the base pattern pieces for a shirt front and back to fit your size. The pattern can be found in the supply list. 
  2. Print and cut the paper pattern. You should have one printout for the front and one printout for the back.
  3. On vest back printout, mark the center of the vest's lower edge and draw a line connecting the mark with the pleat lower point. 
  4. On the same printout as Step 3, mark the center of the vest’s shoulder edge and draw a line connecting the mark to the pleat upper point. 
  5. Cut the pattern vest  back printout along the drawn lines and cut out the pleat.
  6. Tape an extra piece of paper to the bottom edge of the vest front printout. 
  7. On the extra piece of paper, draw a triangle to alter the shape of the vest edge to replicate Todoroki’s “spiked” look. 
  8. Repeat Steps 3-5 on the vest front printout, extending the line in Step 3 to the new lower edge drawn in Step 7
  9. Plan out where you will trace each printout onto its respective fabric to ensure you do not run out of fabric. It is typically recommended to start at a corner. 
  10. Transfer the vest back pattern half that has the armholes onto the black suede fabric using fabric chalk. Flip the printout and trace a separate, mirror-image. 
  11. Fold the black suede fabric in half and trace the vest back central pattern (the half with the neck hole) onto the fabric using fabric chalk. Make sure that the edge of the printout that corresponds to the vest back centerline aligns with the folded fabric edge. 
  12. Transfer the vest front pattern with the armhole onto the black suede fabric. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  13. Transfer the vest front center pattern (the pattern half where buttons will go) onto red suede. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  14. Back outer piece (the one with the hole for sleeves) twice mirrored into black suede.
  15. Cut out each piece of fabric leaving about 1” of seaming allowance. In other words, do not cut along the traced lines, cut about 1” outside of those lines. 

DISCLAIMER: From this point we will use an overlocker machine, if you do not own this machine, you can clean every seam with a zig-zag stitch.

  1. Sew the three back pieces together along (the fabric right sides should be facing each other when sewing two pieces together) and clean the seams using an overlocker. 
  2. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish (make sure that placement of these seams is mirrored for each side, i.e. one to the right of the original seam and one to the left).
  3. Sew two sets of front pieces together with right sides facing each other (i.e. sew corresponding red and black halves together) and clean the seams with the overlocker. Do not sew the red pieces together. 
  4. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish. At this point you should have a single back piece and two mirrored front pieces.
  5. Pin the gold bias tape (or any other regular tape) along the seam that divides the red and black fabrics on two the vest front pieces.
  6. Sew along both edges of the gold tape. 
  7. To create fake pockets, cut two sections of the gold bias tape to your desired length for the pockets. 
  8. Fold the strips in half and, tucking the ends under each other, pin the folded tape to the vest front (the tape fold should face down). 
  9. Sew the tape along the sides and top, but not the bottom, to create the illusion of a real pocket.
  10. Repeat Step 23-24 on the other half of the vest front.
  11. Once all the details are in place, sew together the front and back pieces along the shoulders. The right sides should face each other during the sewing process to ensure the seams are on the “inside” of your vest.
  12. Repeat Steps 26 along the remaining vest “side” seams.
  13. At this point you should have a wearable vest, so it’s the perfect moment to adjust any measurements. Wearing the vest inside out, you can use pins to adjust the seams of the side to fit your chest, waist and hips better. Resew the side seams following your pin guides. Cut any excess fabric. 
  14. Clean the seams with an overlocker.
  15. Hem all of the sleeve edges. 

DISCLAIMER: In case of not owning a bias-tape press-foot you can follow any bias tape sewing guide online for the next step.

  1. Cut all the excess fabric around the piece
  2. Cover all the vest edges with the gold bias tape using a bias-tape press-foot. The tape should go from the neck, down the chest, around the bottom edge, and back up to the neck.

Button Closures:

  1. Mark the locations for four buttons on each half of the vest front. the buttons should be located on the red fabric, about 2” from the vertical seam. Make sure the marks are evenly spaced vertically and aligned across both vest halves. 
  2. Hand sew all 8 buttons (4 on each side) onto the vest. 
  3. Measure and cut 4 segments of gold cord such that each segment tightly loops around a set of buttons (horizontally). 
  4. Burn the cut cord ends with a lighter to melt the ends and avoid fraying. 
  5. Cut small segments of gold bias tape (~1” long). Holding the gold cord ends together, wrap the bias tape around the cords (like a sushi roll) and glue to give a clean look. 
  6. Place a gold loop around a button and, pinching the loop tightly near the button, hand stitch the loop together. Repeat at the other end of the gold loop but pinch less tightly before stitching so that the loop can easily slip over the button- this will allow us to open and close the vest.

Guide

Cape

  1. Fold the cape exterior fabric (black pleather) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  2. Fold the cape lining fabric (wine colored anti-static fabric) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  3. Place one folded fabric on top of the other, making certain the folded edges align, and pin the fabrics together. This setup will allow us to draw ½ of the cape pattern and ensure a symmetrical cut. 
  4. Measure the distance from the nape of your neck to the back of your knees. This will be your cape length (it can be longer if desired).
  5. Using tailor chalk, mark the length you measured on the fabric along the folded edge. This mark will be the starting point for the neckline where the collar will attach. 
  6. Measure the circumference of your neck. 
  7. Starting at the mark from Step 5, sketch ½ of a “U” that is approximately the length of your neck's circumference.
  8. Complete the cape sketch based on the cape reference pattern. Draw the cape as wide as the fabric allows for maximum flare.
  9. Sketch ½ of the collar shape starting at the folded edge of fabric. The smaller, inner “U” should be about equal in length to the circumference of your neck and match the measurement of the corresponding line on the cape sketch (the cape and collar edges will be sewn together along these lines). The collar should be about 5” tall, but feel free to play with the proportions. 
  10. Keeping the fabrics pinned together, cut out the cape and collar pieces leaving a 1” of seaming allowance around the sketch lines. In other words, do not cut along your sketch lines. Use those lines as reference. Alternatively, trace another set of lines parallel to your original sketches as cutting guides. 
  11. Unpin, unfold, and separate the fabrics by outer layer (pleather) and lining. You will have 2 collar pieces and two cape pieces, one set from each fabric. 
  12. Align the pleather collar with the pleather cape and sew together using a sewing machine. Add an extra seam to the “top” of the collar to flatten it. 
  13. Repeat Step 12 for the collar and cape lining. 
  14. Putting right sides together (i.e. the wrong side facing outward), sew the lining to the outer layer of the cape around all the edges except the top of the collar. We need this edge to remain open to turn the cape inside out, like a pillow case.
  15. Turn the cape inside out. 
  16. To close the cape, carefully fold about ½” of lining and pleather at the top of the collar inward. Pin the pieces together as you go along, then sew that edge shut. 
  17. Run a straight stitch all around the outer edge of the cape to give it a more finished look.
  18. You can hand-sew the collar down to the neck to make the piece the shape that you desire.
  19. Use a brooch (painted red to match the colour scheme and some of the artworks) to secure the cape around your neck.

Vest

Base:

  1. Scale the base pattern pieces for a shirt front and back to fit your size. The pattern can be found in the supply list. 
  2. Print and cut the paper pattern. You should have one printout for the front and one printout for the back.
  3. On vest back printout, mark the center of the vest's lower edge and draw a line connecting the mark with the pleat lower point. 
  4. On the same printout as Step 3, mark the center of the vest’s shoulder edge and draw a line connecting the mark to the pleat upper point. 
  5. Cut the pattern vest  back printout along the drawn lines and cut out the pleat.
  6. Tape an extra piece of paper to the bottom edge of the vest front printout. 
  7. On the extra piece of paper, draw a triangle to alter the shape of the vest edge to replicate Todoroki’s “spiked” look. 
  8. Repeat Steps 3-5 on the vest front printout, extending the line in Step 3 to the new lower edge drawn in Step 7
  9. Plan out where you will trace each printout onto its respective fabric to ensure you do not run out of fabric. It is typically recommended to start at a corner. 
  10. Transfer the vest back pattern half that has the armholes onto the black suede fabric using fabric chalk. Flip the printout and trace a separate, mirror-image. 
  11. Fold the black suede fabric in half and trace the vest back central pattern (the half with the neck hole) onto the fabric using fabric chalk. Make sure that the edge of the printout that corresponds to the vest back centerline aligns with the folded fabric edge. 
  12. Transfer the vest front pattern with the armhole onto the black suede fabric. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  13. Transfer the vest front center pattern (the pattern half where buttons will go) onto red suede. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  14. Back outer piece (the one with the hole for sleeves) twice mirrored into black suede.
  15. Cut out each piece of fabric leaving about 1” of seaming allowance. In other words, do not cut along the traced lines, cut about 1” outside of those lines. 

DISCLAIMER: From this point we will use an overlocker machine, if you do not own this machine, you can clean every seam with a zig-zag stitch.

  1. Sew the three back pieces together along (the fabric right sides should be facing each other when sewing two pieces together) and clean the seams using an overlocker. 
  2. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish (make sure that placement of these seams is mirrored for each side, i.e. one to the right of the original seam and one to the left).
  3. Sew two sets of front pieces together with right sides facing each other (i.e. sew corresponding red and black halves together) and clean the seams with the overlocker. Do not sew the red pieces together. 
  4. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish. At this point you should have a single back piece and two mirrored front pieces.
  5. Pin the gold bias tape (or any other regular tape) along the seam that divides the red and black fabrics on two the vest front pieces.
  6. Sew along both edges of the gold tape. 
  7. To create fake pockets, cut two sections of the gold bias tape to your desired length for the pockets. 
  8. Fold the strips in half and, tucking the ends under each other, pin the folded tape to the vest front (the tape fold should face down). 
  9. Sew the tape along the sides and top, but not the bottom, to create the illusion of a real pocket.
  10. Repeat Step 23-24 on the other half of the vest front.
  11. Once all the details are in place, sew together the front and back pieces along the shoulders. The right sides should face each other during the sewing process to ensure the seams are on the “inside” of your vest.
  12. Repeat Steps 26 along the remaining vest “side” seams.
  13. At this point you should have a wearable vest, so it’s the perfect moment to adjust any measurements. Wearing the vest inside out, you can use pins to adjust the seams of the side to fit your chest, waist and hips better. Resew the side seams following your pin guides. Cut any excess fabric. 
  14. Clean the seams with an overlocker.
  15. Hem all of the sleeve edges. 

DISCLAIMER: In case of not owning a bias-tape press-foot you can follow any bias tape sewing guide online for the next step.

  1. Cut all the excess fabric around the piece
  2. Cover all the vest edges with the gold bias tape using a bias-tape press-foot. The tape should go from the neck, down the chest, around the bottom edge, and back up to the neck.

Button Closures:

  1. Mark the locations for four buttons on each half of the vest front. the buttons should be located on the red fabric, about 2” from the vertical seam. Make sure the marks are evenly spaced vertically and aligned across both vest halves. 
  2. Hand sew all 8 buttons (4 on each side) onto the vest. 
  3. Measure and cut 4 segments of gold cord such that each segment tightly loops around a set of buttons (horizontally). 
  4. Burn the cut cord ends with a lighter to melt the ends and avoid fraying. 
  5. Cut small segments of gold bias tape (~1” long). Holding the gold cord ends together, wrap the bias tape around the cords (like a sushi roll) and glue to give a clean look. 
  6. Place a gold loop around a button and, pinching the loop tightly near the button, hand stitch the loop together. Repeat at the other end of the gold loop but pinch less tightly before stitching so that the loop can easily slip over the button- this will allow us to open and close the vest.

Description

Make a Todoroki costume in his vampire version. You can find the base outfit in your closet or at a thrift store, so this tutorial focuses on the most distinct parts of the costume -- the vest and cape. You can alter these pieces to suit other costumes as well!

Tools required
  • Sewing scissors
  • Fabric scissors
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine
  • Bias tape presser foot
  • Overlocker machine
  • Sewing Needles
  • Lighter
  • Tailor chalk
  • Paintbrushes
skills required
  • Basic machine sewing
  • Basic hand sewing
  • Ability to use sharp scissors
  • Safely use a lighter and superglue
  • Basic pattern modification

images for inspiration
No images available
Supply list
Part Description
Costume section
est. Cost
Part description
2 yards of black pleather
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
$27
Part description
2 yards of red anti-static lining
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
$5
Part description
1 yard of black faux suede with scuba backing
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$12
Part description
Male pattern pack
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$8
Part description
1 yard of red faux suede with scuba backing
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$6
Part description
Black thread
costume section
General
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Yellow thread
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Gold bias binding tape
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
Gold twisted cord
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$3
Part description
8x gold retro buttons
costume section
Vest
Est. Cost
$12
Part description
White Button-Up Shirt
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
Black Chino Pants
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
Black Leather Gloves
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
White Foulard
costume section
Est. Cost
Part description
1x tube red paint
costume section
Cape
Est. Cost
Guide

Cape

  1. Fold the cape exterior fabric (black pleather) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  2. Fold the cape lining fabric (wine colored anti-static fabric) in half so that the wrong side faces outward. 
  3. Place one folded fabric on top of the other, making certain the folded edges align, and pin the fabrics together. This setup will allow us to draw ½ of the cape pattern and ensure a symmetrical cut. 
  4. Measure the distance from the nape of your neck to the back of your knees. This will be your cape length (it can be longer if desired).
  5. Using tailor chalk, mark the length you measured on the fabric along the folded edge. This mark will be the starting point for the neckline where the collar will attach. 
  6. Measure the circumference of your neck. 
  7. Starting at the mark from Step 5, sketch ½ of a “U” that is approximately the length of your neck's circumference.
  8. Complete the cape sketch based on the cape reference pattern. Draw the cape as wide as the fabric allows for maximum flare.
  9. Sketch ½ of the collar shape starting at the folded edge of fabric. The smaller, inner “U” should be about equal in length to the circumference of your neck and match the measurement of the corresponding line on the cape sketch (the cape and collar edges will be sewn together along these lines). The collar should be about 5” tall, but feel free to play with the proportions. 
  10. Keeping the fabrics pinned together, cut out the cape and collar pieces leaving a 1” of seaming allowance around the sketch lines. In other words, do not cut along your sketch lines. Use those lines as reference. Alternatively, trace another set of lines parallel to your original sketches as cutting guides. 
  11. Unpin, unfold, and separate the fabrics by outer layer (pleather) and lining. You will have 2 collar pieces and two cape pieces, one set from each fabric. 
  12. Align the pleather collar with the pleather cape and sew together using a sewing machine. Add an extra seam to the “top” of the collar to flatten it. 
  13. Repeat Step 12 for the collar and cape lining. 
  14. Putting right sides together (i.e. the wrong side facing outward), sew the lining to the outer layer of the cape around all the edges except the top of the collar. We need this edge to remain open to turn the cape inside out, like a pillow case.
  15. Turn the cape inside out. 
  16. To close the cape, carefully fold about ½” of lining and pleather at the top of the collar inward. Pin the pieces together as you go along, then sew that edge shut. 
  17. Run a straight stitch all around the outer edge of the cape to give it a more finished look.
  18. You can hand-sew the collar down to the neck to make the piece the shape that you desire.
  19. Use a brooch (painted red to match the colour scheme and some of the artworks) to secure the cape around your neck.

Vest

Base:

  1. Scale the base pattern pieces for a shirt front and back to fit your size. The pattern can be found in the supply list. 
  2. Print and cut the paper pattern. You should have one printout for the front and one printout for the back.
  3. On vest back printout, mark the center of the vest's lower edge and draw a line connecting the mark with the pleat lower point. 
  4. On the same printout as Step 3, mark the center of the vest’s shoulder edge and draw a line connecting the mark to the pleat upper point. 
  5. Cut the pattern vest  back printout along the drawn lines and cut out the pleat.
  6. Tape an extra piece of paper to the bottom edge of the vest front printout. 
  7. On the extra piece of paper, draw a triangle to alter the shape of the vest edge to replicate Todoroki’s “spiked” look. 
  8. Repeat Steps 3-5 on the vest front printout, extending the line in Step 3 to the new lower edge drawn in Step 7
  9. Plan out where you will trace each printout onto its respective fabric to ensure you do not run out of fabric. It is typically recommended to start at a corner. 
  10. Transfer the vest back pattern half that has the armholes onto the black suede fabric using fabric chalk. Flip the printout and trace a separate, mirror-image. 
  11. Fold the black suede fabric in half and trace the vest back central pattern (the half with the neck hole) onto the fabric using fabric chalk. Make sure that the edge of the printout that corresponds to the vest back centerline aligns with the folded fabric edge. 
  12. Transfer the vest front pattern with the armhole onto the black suede fabric. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  13. Transfer the vest front center pattern (the pattern half where buttons will go) onto red suede. Flip the printout and trace another, mirrored front piece. 
  14. Back outer piece (the one with the hole for sleeves) twice mirrored into black suede.
  15. Cut out each piece of fabric leaving about 1” of seaming allowance. In other words, do not cut along the traced lines, cut about 1” outside of those lines. 

DISCLAIMER: From this point we will use an overlocker machine, if you do not own this machine, you can clean every seam with a zig-zag stitch.

  1. Sew the three back pieces together along (the fabric right sides should be facing each other when sewing two pieces together) and clean the seams using an overlocker. 
  2. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish (make sure that placement of these seams is mirrored for each side, i.e. one to the right of the original seam and one to the left).
  3. Sew two sets of front pieces together with right sides facing each other (i.e. sew corresponding red and black halves together) and clean the seams with the overlocker. Do not sew the red pieces together. 
  4. Run an extra straight stitch along the seams finish. At this point you should have a single back piece and two mirrored front pieces.
  5. Pin the gold bias tape (or any other regular tape) along the seam that divides the red and black fabrics on two the vest front pieces.
  6. Sew along both edges of the gold tape. 
  7. To create fake pockets, cut two sections of the gold bias tape to your desired length for the pockets. 
  8. Fold the strips in half and, tucking the ends under each other, pin the folded tape to the vest front (the tape fold should face down). 
  9. Sew the tape along the sides and top, but not the bottom, to create the illusion of a real pocket.
  10. Repeat Step 23-24 on the other half of the vest front.
  11. Once all the details are in place, sew together the front and back pieces along the shoulders. The right sides should face each other during the sewing process to ensure the seams are on the “inside” of your vest.
  12. Repeat Steps 26 along the remaining vest “side” seams.
  13. At this point you should have a wearable vest, so it’s the perfect moment to adjust any measurements. Wearing the vest inside out, you can use pins to adjust the seams of the side to fit your chest, waist and hips better. Resew the side seams following your pin guides. Cut any excess fabric. 
  14. Clean the seams with an overlocker.
  15. Hem all of the sleeve edges. 

DISCLAIMER: In case of not owning a bias-tape press-foot you can follow any bias tape sewing guide online for the next step.

  1. Cut all the excess fabric around the piece
  2. Cover all the vest edges with the gold bias tape using a bias-tape press-foot. The tape should go from the neck, down the chest, around the bottom edge, and back up to the neck.

Button Closures:

  1. Mark the locations for four buttons on each half of the vest front. the buttons should be located on the red fabric, about 2” from the vertical seam. Make sure the marks are evenly spaced vertically and aligned across both vest halves. 
  2. Hand sew all 8 buttons (4 on each side) onto the vest. 
  3. Measure and cut 4 segments of gold cord such that each segment tightly loops around a set of buttons (horizontally). 
  4. Burn the cut cord ends with a lighter to melt the ends and avoid fraying. 
  5. Cut small segments of gold bias tape (~1” long). Holding the gold cord ends together, wrap the bias tape around the cords (like a sushi roll) and glue to give a clean look. 
  6. Place a gold loop around a button and, pinching the loop tightly near the button, hand stitch the loop together. Repeat at the other end of the gold loop but pinch less tightly before stitching so that the loop can easily slip over the button- this will allow us to open and close the vest.

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